Ferry Building & the Embarcadero collectible travel poster

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San Francisco8 min

Ferry Building & the Embarcadero

The Ferry Building San Francisco opened on July 13, 1898 at the foot of Market Street, and before the bridges it handled around 50 million passengers a year. Its 245-foot clock tower carries four dials 22 feet across. Ferry traffic collapsed after the Bay Bridge opened in 1936, and a 2003 restoration reopened the 660-foot nave as a food marketplace.

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San Francisco · 8 min listen · 5 sources

Quick answer

The Ferry Building San Francisco opened on July 13, 1898 at the foot of Market Street, and before the bridges it handled around 50 million passengers a year. Its 245-foot clock tower carries four dials 22 feet across. Ferry traffic collapsed after the Bay Bridge opened in 1936, and a 2003 restoration reopened the 660-foot nave as a food marketplace.

1Opened 13 July 1898, replacing an 1875 wooden building on the same site
2The clock tower is 245 feet tall with four dials each 22 feet across
3Until the bridges opened it was the second busiest transit terminal in the world, after London's Charing Cross

Full transcript

1

The Tower That Outlasted Its Purpose

Stand where Market Street meets the water and look up. The clock tower above you is 245 feet of steel and brick, and the four dials facing north, south, east and west are each 22 feet across — large enough to be read from a ferry deck a quarter mile out. You will hear guides repeat that the tower was modeled on the Giralda, the bell tower of the Seville Cathedral. That story is wrong, and has been for a long time. No drawings, no letters, no contract in the architect's papers support it. The architect was A. Page Brown, and the plans were drawn up in 1892, six years before the building opened on July 13, 1898. Brown died before his terminal was finished, and never saw the crowds it was designed for. The resemblance is there; the inheritance is not. Count the four clock dials on the tower above you and read the hour from where you stand.

2

The Second-Busiest Door on Earth

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3

The Slipboard Ticket and the Slip Criers

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4

The Bridges Take the Passengers

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5

The Freeway Across the Facade

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6

The Restoration and the Nave

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7

The Marketplace and the Rules of the House

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8

What California Actually Tastes Like

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9

The Commuter Boats Return

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10

The Embarcadero Outside the Door

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11

Why the Building Matters Now

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Deep-dive audio

  1. 1The Tower That Outlasted Its Purpose0:52Free preview
  2. 2The Second-Busiest Door on Earth0:46Unlock to listen
  3. 3The Slipboard Ticket and the Slip Criers0:45Unlock to listen
  4. 4The Bridges Take the Passengers0:45Unlock to listen
  5. 5The Freeway Across the Facade0:50Unlock to listen
  6. 6The Restoration and the Nave0:52Unlock to listen
  7. 7The Marketplace and the Rules of the House0:46Unlock to listen
  8. 8What California Actually Tastes Like0:44Unlock to listen
  9. 9The Commuter Boats Return0:39Unlock to listen
  10. 10The Embarcadero Outside the Door0:44Unlock to listen
  11. 11Why the Building Matters Now0:42Unlock to listen
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Frequently asked

When did the Ferry Building open, and who designed it?
It opened on July 13, 1898, to a design by the architect A. Page Brown, drawn up in 1892. The steel-framed terminal runs 660 feet along the waterfront, and the tower carries four clock dials 22 feet across. It replaced a wooden ferry house that had stood on the same spot.
Why did the ferries stop running?
Bridges took the traffic. The Bay Bridge carried its first cars in November 1936 and the Golden Gate Bridge followed in May 1937, so commuters who had crossed by boat drove instead. Service shrank to almost nothing by the 1950s. A small commuter fleet returned in the 1970s and still docks behind the building.
What is inside the Ferry Building today?
The ground-floor nave holds roughly fifty independent food businesses: cheesemongers, bakers, coffee roasters, an oyster bar, butchers and produce sellers, most of them small California operations rather than chains. The plaza outside hosts the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market several mornings a week, run by the non-profit CUESA, where growers sell direct to the public.
What happened to the freeway that used to block the building?
The double-deck Embarcadero Freeway, State Route 480, ran across the facade from 1959. The Loma Prieta earthquake of October 1989 damaged it beyond economic repair, the city won the argument to tear it down rather than rebuild, and demolition finished in 1991. A surface boulevard and waterfront promenade took its place.

This one is a deep dive

A 8-minute deep dive: 11 chapters with text and audio. Chapter one previews at no charge; the rest unlocks once.

Image credit

Photo: Ferry Building at night.jpg by Dllu, via Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. This poster is a derivative work and carries the same licence.